The Kimono – A Journey Through Time in Traditional Japanese Attire
About a decade ago, I visited Japan and fell in love. The different landscapes, unique culture, unfamiliar language, aesthetic, cleanliness—even the manhole covers in the streets caught my eye. But more than anything, I was fascinated by Japanese clothing. Just before my new collection launches, I looked into and researched the origins of this iconic Japanese garment and what makes it distinctive.
A group of women wearing traditional Japanese kimonos in a bamboo forest setting, photographed by Harun
The kimono is much more than just a garment. It is a symbol of Japan’s rich culture. This garment has a long tradition and reflects values of beauty, aesthetics, and ritual.
The kimono, meaning “thing to wear,” first appeared in Japan in the 8th century and evolved over hundreds of years, incorporating influences from China and Korea. It is Japan’s traditional clothing. In the past, the word “kimono” referred to all types of clothing, but over the years its meaning narrowed to refer to the elegant, ceremonial robe worn by men, children, and especially women.
An elegant geisha wearing a traditional Japanese kimono, photographed by Andy Wilson
Women’s Kimonos
There is a difference between the types of kimono worn by married women and those worn by unmarried women.
Unmarried women wear a type of kimono called a furisode. The literal translation is furi—swinging, sode—sleeves. This is the most formal style of kimono, with exceptionally long sleeves that reach down to the floor (the sleeves are usually about 39–42 inches long). The furisode was originally worn mainly for special formal social occasions, such as tea ceremonies and family members’ weddings. Since it is a very expensive garment, it is usually rented for the occasion. It is worn at Seijin Shiki celebrations (Coming of Age Day) in the year a woman turns 20. By wearing it, the young woman indicates that she is legally an adult and unmarried, and therefore ready for marriage.
Married women wear kimonos with shorter sleeves than those worn by unmarried women. The reason is that married women work with their hands, so their arms need to remain uncovered. A woman of high status fastens her kimono with a long sash tied at the back, so she may need help getting dressed—an indication of her elevated status. Women of lower status are depicted in Japanese paintings wearing kimonos with their sashes tied at the front, so they can fasten them on their own.
Furisode kimono, worn by unmarried women, photographed by Rithika Thadani
A married woman’s kimono has shorter sleeves than an unmarried woman’s. Photographed by Geoffrey Currie
Men’s Kimonos
Unlike women’s kimonos, men’s kimonos are much simpler. They are usually made in a single basic style and come in fairly subdued colors. Their level of formality is determined by the type and color of the accessories and fabrics, and by the number—or absence—of family crests (ka-mon). Unlike women’s kimonos, which have especially deep sleeves that are mostly detached from the body of the garment, men’s sleeves are less deep. In addition, the fabrics used for men’s and women’s kimonos differ. The typical men’s kimono comes in dark, muted colors such as black, dark blue, dark green, and brown, unlike the vibrant colors characteristic of women’s kimonos.
Kimono Weaving
Each kimono is made from a “tan”—a single bolt of fabric produced in a size sufficient to sew just one adult kimono, so one full bolt is used to make one kimono. The fabric is woven on a Japanese handloom called a hata oriki and measures about 36–40 cm wide by about 11.5 meters long. A traditional kimono is handwoven and handcrafted, traditionally from silk in a satin weave, and embellished with decorative gold-thread silk embroidery. As the textile industry developed, less expensive and easier-to-maintain materials came into use, including artificial silk, cotton, cotton satin, polyester, and other synthetic fibers. However, silk is still considered the ideal fabric for formal occasions.
Kimono Styles range from highly formal to simple, lightweight, and comfortable for everyday wear. The formality of a woman’s kimono is generally determined by its pattern, fabric, and color. The patterns on a kimono are highly significant, distinguishing everyday kimonos from high-quality formal ones. Repeating woven or dyed patterns are more common on everyday kimonos, while high-quality formal kimonos may feature free-form patterns dyed across the entire fabric or only along the garment’s hem. In addition, the pattern on a kimono can indicate the season in which it should be worn. For example:
Spring kimonos feature patterns with butterflies or sakura (Japanese cherry blossoms);
Summer kimonos feature water-inspired patterns for hot summer days;
Autumn kimonos feature the Japanese maple in shades of brown and gold;
and winter kimonos feature bamboo, pine trees, plum blossoms, and similar motifs.
Unlike women’s kimonos, men’s kimonos are much simpler. They are usually made in a single basic style and come in fairly subdued colors. Their level of formality is determined by the type and color of the accessories and fabrics, and by the number—or absence—of family crests (ka-mon). Unlike women’s kimonos, which have especially deep sleeves that are mostly detached from the body of the garment, men’s sleeves are less deep. In addition, the fabrics used for men’s and women’s kimonos differ. The typical men’s kimono comes in dark, muted colors such as black, dark blue, dark green, and brown, unlike the vibrant colors characteristic of women’s kimonos.
Kimono Weaving
Each kimono is made from a “tan”—a single bolt of fabric produced in a size sufficient to sew just one adult kimono, so one full bolt is used to make one kimono. The fabric is woven on a Japanese handloom called a hata oriki and measures about 36–40 cm wide by about 11.5 meters long. A traditional kimono is handwoven and handcrafted, traditionally from silk in a satin weave, and embellished with decorative gold-thread silk embroidery. As the textile industry developed, less expensive and easier-to-maintain materials came into use, including artificial silk, cotton, cotton satin, polyester, and other synthetic fibers. However, silk is still considered the ideal fabric for formal occasions.
Kimono Styles range from highly formal to simple, lightweight, and comfortable for everyday wear. The formality of a woman’s kimono is generally determined by its pattern, fabric, and color. The patterns on a kimono are highly significant, distinguishing everyday kimonos from high-quality formal ones. Repeating woven or dyed patterns are more common on everyday kimonos, while high-quality formal kimonos may feature free-form patterns dyed across the entire fabric or only along the garment’s hem. In addition, the pattern on a kimono can indicate the season in which it should be worn. For example:
Spring kimonos feature patterns with butterflies or sakura (Japanese cherry blossoms);
Summer kimonos feature water-inspired patterns for hot summer days;
Autumn kimonos feature the Japanese maple in shades of brown and gold;
and winter kimonos feature bamboo, pine trees, plum blossoms, and similar motifs.
An autumn kimono with patterns in brown shades, photographed by
Willian Justen de Vasconcellos (
Willian Justen de Vasconcellos
)
Choosing the right kimono style for an occasion is no easy task. It requires an understanding of its symbolic meaning as well as the subtle social messages conveyed by its embellishments, which reflect a woman’s age, marital status, and the formality of the event she is attending.
Kimono Construction
A kimono is made from four main pieces of fabric: two pieces covering the body and two pieces forming the sleeves, along with smaller strips of fabric that create the narrow front overlap and the collar.
As for sizing, men’s kimonos come in a range of sizes, while women’s kimonos are woven in one standard size and tailored to the wearer using folds.
A traditionally woven kimono has sleeves that reach the wrist when the arms hang straight down. Men’s kimonos are about ankle-length. Women’s kimonos are longer to allow enough fabric for the fold visible beneath the sash, the obi.
The sleeve often contains a hidden inner pocket for storing items such as a handkerchief or a small pouch.
Caring for a Kimono
In the past, washing a kimono required taking it apart; after washing and drying, it was sewn back together. Since then, new fabrics and modern cleaning methods have been developed, eliminating the need to take the kimono apart.
As with other traditional Japanese garments, there are specific ways to fold a kimono. These methods help preserve it and prevent it from creasing in storage. Kimonos are often stored wrapped in paper. In addition, they are aired out before and after each wear, throughout the year.
In conclusion, the kimono is a garment steeped in history, dating back thousands of years. This Japanese garment was influenced by traditional Chinese clothing and later reached the West in a variety of forms.
The kimono has remained relevant for so many years, for both women and men, and is a significant cornerstone of modern fashion. Kimonos are still worn in Japan today, but they have also become a popular fashion item around the world. Many designers incorporate kimono elements into their designs, and kimonos are worn at special events and even by celebrities.
In the past, washing a kimono required taking it apart; after washing and drying, it was sewn back together. Since then, new fabrics and modern cleaning methods have been developed, eliminating the need to take the kimono apart.
As with other traditional Japanese garments, there are specific ways to fold a kimono. These methods help preserve it and prevent it from creasing in storage. Kimonos are often stored wrapped in paper. In addition, they are aired out before and after each wear, throughout the year.
In conclusion, the kimono is a garment steeped in history, dating back thousands of years. This Japanese garment was influenced by traditional Chinese clothing and later reached the West in a variety of forms.
The kimono has remained relevant for so many years, for both women and men, and is a significant cornerstone of modern fashion. Kimonos are still worn in Japan today, but they have also become a popular fashion item around the world. Many designers incorporate kimono elements into their designs, and kimonos are worn at special events and even by celebrities.
Kimono-inspired dress, from Liat Brandel’s Summer CollectionThe kimono connects the past with the present and the future—a distinctive garment that has remained relevant for thousands of years and will continue to do so for years to come. The kimono is not just a garment, but an expression of Japanese culture, tradition, and art. It is a distinctive symbol of beauty, elegance, and ritual, adding a special touch to any occasion.
Black kimono jacket with a removable origami collar uniquely designed by Liat Brandel
Post cover image: Photo: Sébastien Le Derout / from Pexels (free to use)
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